How to Apply Luxapool® Epoxy Paint Like a Pro: Step-by-Step for Aussie DIYers

Why Luxapool® Epoxy

Luxapool® Epoxy Pool Paint is the go-to coating for Australian pools — concrete, render, fibreglass, marblesheen and pebblecrete. It cures to a hard, high-gloss, chemical-resistant surface and lasts seven to eight years with correct preparation and pool chemistry.

Before you order: epoxy will not stick to chlorinated rubber. If your pool has been painted before and you don’t know with what, rub the surface with acetone or Chlorinated Rubber Solvent for a minute. Sticky and soft means rubber. Firm means epoxy, and you’re good to go.

What You’ll Need

• Luxapool® Epoxy — 8 to 10 kits for a standard 10m × 5m pool over two coats. Pebblecrete needs roughly double.
• Epoxy Primer Sealer — about 4 kits, if your pool is bare or uncoated. Not needed over sound existing epoxy.
• A roller at least 270mm wide on a 60mm core, medium nap, plus a tray to match
• 75mm brush for cutting in at the tile line
• Our DIY Pool Painting Kit — 270mm frame, 12mm nap covers, brushes, tray and stirrer in one box
• Drill Paint Mixer for the two-pack mixing
• Luxapool® Solvent A for clean-up
• Structural Epoxy Filler for cracks and chips
• Gloves, goggles and a suitable mask

Order the full quantity in one go. Epoxy shouldn’t be part-mixed and colour can vary between batches — a top-up tin bought later may not match.

Preparation

This is most of the job. Get it wrong and nothing else matters.

1. Drain the pool completely.
2. Wash the whole surface with diluted concentrated wash to lift sun creams, body oils and algae, then rinse thoroughly.
3. Repair cracks and chips. Paint will not bridge a gap. Structural cracks need professional attention first.
4. Bare render: acid etch — 2 parts water to 1 part acid on new render, 3 to 1 on old. Always add acid to water, never the reverse. Flush as soon as the bubbling stops, neutralise with bicarbonate of soda, and never let residue dry on the surface.
5. Existing epoxy or fibreglass: abrade the entire surface with 20–40 grit to a sandpaper feel. All of it — this is what the new coat keys into. Vacuum and hose off the dust.
6. Dry completely. Moisture content must be below 5%. No hygrometer? Tape a square of black plastic to the pool floor in the morning — droplets underneath by mid-afternoon mean it’s too wet.

Applying the Paint

1. Mix whole packs only. The two components are pre-weighed to fine tolerances — part-mixing stops the paint curing. Combine base and hardener, mix thoroughly, then allow 5–10 minutes induction before you start.
2. Use it within the hour. Once mixed, the clock is running.
3. Cut in first with the 75mm brush around steps, corners, fittings and the tile line.
4. Roll the main surfaces in sections, keeping a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Don’t apply thin — an overspread coat wears faster.
5. Second coat after 20 to 24 hours, surface dry. If more than 24 hours passes, you must abrade the entire pool to a dull finish and remove all sanding dust before recoating.

Paint still tacky after 4–6 hours wasn’t mixed correctly and won’t cure.

Conditions

• Between 10 and 30°C, and staying in that range for the 3 to 6 hours after application
• Never in direct sunlight. Shade-cloth over the pool for the whole process is worth the effort
• Humidity around 50%
• Defer if rain is forecast — rain or dew during curing leaves a milky bloom that has to be sanded off with 40–60 grit
• Allow several consecutive fine days: one for prep, more for coats

Before You Fill

At least 10 days in summer. At least 14 in winter. Longer is better.

This is the step people rush and the one that can’t be undone. Filling early damages the colour permanently — it shows as cloudy, uneven patches across the final coat. Once filled, add nothing but salt or chlorine for a further 3–5 days.

How Much Will You Need?

Each 3.5L kit covers 20–25m² per coat on smooth surfaces, 10–13m² on pebblecrete. Work out your exact figure with the Pool Paint Calculator rather than estimating.